

New to drifting? These are the terms you'll hear at every event. Plain English, no jargon — built so you can follow the action from day one.
Lets the front wheels turn way further than stock.
A set of upgraded steering and suspension parts that increase how far the front wheels can turn. More steering angle means you can hold a slide at a bigger angle without spinning out — the single biggest mod for drift cars.
A hydraulic handbrake used to break traction.
A hand-operated hydraulic brake that locks the rear wheels on demand. Pull it to instantly break rear traction and initiate a slide or extend a drift through a corner. Far stronger and more reliable than the factory mechanical handbrake.
A deep, supportive seat that holds you in place.
A one-piece motorsport seat with high side bolsters that holds your body tight during hard cornering so you are not thrown around while sliding. Usually paired with a harness instead of a stock seatbelt.
Adjustable suspension that sets ride height and stiffness.
Adjustable shock absorbers with a built-in spring that let you set ride height and damping stiffness. Drift cars run stiff coilovers to keep the car predictable and to tune weight transfer.
Sends power to both rear wheels instead of just one.
A differential that locks the two rear wheels together so they both spin under power. Without one, a car will spin only one wheel and struggle to drift. A welded diff does the same thing by welding the internals solid — cheap and common on drift builds.
The links that steer the front wheels.
Rods that connect the steering rack to the front wheels. Upgraded, extended tie rods are needed when you run an angle kit so the steering can reach the extra travel without binding or breaking.
Arms that locate the wheels and set alignment.
Suspension arms that connect the chassis to the wheel hub. Adjustable control arms let you dial in camber and roll center after lowering the car or adding an angle kit.
The steering pivots the wheels turn on.
The uprights that the front wheels pivot on when you steer. Modified or "drift" knuckles change steering geometry to add angle and quicker steering response.
Plates that push the wheels outward for stance and clearance.
Discs that bolt between the wheel and hub to push the wheel outward. Used to fit wider wheels, clear angle-kit parts, and dial in stance and track width.
How much the wheels lean in or out at the top.
The vertical tilt of a wheel. Drift cars often run negative camber up front (top tilted in) for more steering angle and grip, and the rear is tuned for predictable breakaway.
Whether the front of the wheels point in or out.
The horizontal angle of the wheels — pointing in (toe-in) or out (toe-out). Drift cars run a little front toe-out for quicker turn-in response when initiating a slide.
A way to break traction by dumping the clutch.
A drift technique where you quickly dump (release) the clutch at higher RPM to shock the drivetrain and break the rear tires loose. Used to initiate a slide or save a dying drift.
Two or more cars drifting together in sync.
When two or more drift cars run side-by-side or nose-to-tail through a corner, matching each other's angle and speed. Tandem is the heart of drift competition and the most fun part of the sport.
The moment a drift begins.
The transition from grip to slide — the point where the rear steps out and the drift starts. Drivers initiate with a clutch kick, e-brake, feint (scandinavian flick), or by carrying too much speed into the corner.
Shifting the car's weight to help it rotate.
Using braking, steering, or throttle to shift the car's weight forward, back, or sideways. Loading the front tires helps the car turn in; unloading the rear helps it slide out. The foundation of car control in drifting.
How far the front wheels can turn.
The maximum degrees the front wheels can steer. Stock cars have around 30–35°; drift cars with angle kits run 50–70°+ so the driver can chase the slide and never run out of steering.
Now that you know the lingo, come see it in action at the next event.